Addressing the concerns of menopausal skin is big business these days, but as many of you know, this has been a topic I have addressed for many decades. I have written a lot about aging skin and how to treat it through every decade, and developed skin care treatments, protocols and products that included breakthrough ingredients such as pure, sustainably-harvest Seaweed filtrate that provides all the nutrients, vitamins, amino acids, antioxidants and phyto-hormones to address skin care concerns through-out a person’s life, including menopause.
In my practice I have also advocated the importance of treating skin holistically, both inside and out. I have written about the use of IV drips in conjunction with skin care protocols to truly created wellness for the individual and promote agless-looking skin.
Here, I will look specifically at the growing market that deals with skin concerns related to menopause and perimenopause, discuss the physical changes brought on by menopause and discuss ingredients and options to help truly serve your clients during this transition and beyond.
Menopause Skin Care Is Big Business
The global menopause market is expected to reach $24.4 billion by 2030, up from $15.4 billion in 2021. According to the North American Menopause Society, approximately 6,000 women in the U.S. reach menopause every day, and around 2 million women per year. As per the UN data, there is an estimated 985 million women aged 50 years and above in 2020. This number is expected to reach 1.65 billion by 2050. Furthermore, women ages 50 and older spend an average of $29 monthly on beauty and personal grooming products, representing nearly $22 billion in annual sales.
Perimenopausal Skin Conditions:
Perimenopause is the time during which a woman’s body is transitioning to complete loss of fertility, or menopause. A woman can enter perimenopause at different ages, usually starting to occur in the mid 40’s, but can begin as early as the mid-30’s. It is during this time that there is a gradual shutdown of the ovaries, during which important hormonal changes take place.
The woman’s body is thrown off balance due to the declining production of the dominant female hormones such as B-Estradiol, a common estrogen, and progesterone. Conversely, although women produce only a small amount of male sex hormones, or androgens, due to the depletion of estrogen and progesterone, the effects become more dominant. This can lead to skin becoming excessively oily as well as excessively dry during different times of the month. This can also lead to increased hair growth on the face and other areas of the body.
Hormone Basics:
As we know, estrogens such as 17β-estradiol is a key signaling hormone in the body, generated at ovarian and peripheral sites, and transmitted via estrogen receptors to influence many important biological functions. It is associated with a dramatic reduction in skin health and wellness by negatively impacting dermal cellular functions.
Skin estrogen biosynthesis has been reported in keratinocytes, melanocytes, and fibroblasts. Also, estrogen induces the structural protein ezrin that enables the intercellular bridges that furnish epidermal integrity, induces the hydrophilic glycosaminoglycan hyaluran that underlies skin thickness and opacity, induces elastin which gives the skin its resilience to deformation. It also Induces the expression of several types of collagens that are the basis of the mass of the dermis.
The changes include loss of collagen, elastin, fibroblast function, blood flow vascularity, and increased enzyme activities that causes cellular degradations leading to dryness, wrinkles, atrophy, impaired wound healing and barrier function, decreased antioxidant capacity [i.e., defense against reactive oxygen species (ROS) and oxidative stress], and increased perception of aging. All of this, of course, can have tremendous impact on psychological health, which can create a vicious cycle of internal and external problems.
The first signs of dermal aging begins around 30 years of age when estrogen levels begin to decline, the skin thins, dries, wrinkles, becomes pigmented unevenly and wound healing is delayed.
While the list of effects to skin is extensive, the following is a summation of the major skin concerns that can present themselves after estrogen cessation or perimenopause:
WRINKLES: Studies show that women’s skin loses about 30% of its collagen during the first five years of menopause and elasticity decreases by 1.5% per year after menopause.
Skin is a composite tissue, consisting of a fibrous matrix containing elastin and collagen. Collagen provides strength to the skin structure and elastin provides the snap or resiliency. When the elastin fibers undergo changes that cause them to lose their resiliency or snap, the skin no longer is able to return to its original state. As a result, sagging and wrinkling can occur, around the eyes and mouth, and frown lines form along the forehead.
DRY SKIN: The hormonal changes brought on by perimenopause decrease sebum production, so that with each passing year the average moisture content of the stratum corneum is slightly decreased. Estrogen also enhances moisture/hydration (via hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides, and sebum production) where skin strength, dermal thickness, and keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation is increased.
THIN SKIN: During menopause, the blood flow through the skin’s capillaries is reduced as the capillaries are partly under the control of the estrogens, resulting in fewer nutrients and oxygens feeding the skin. This is a contributory factor both to the thinning of the skin and reduced cell turnover rate leading to water loss and dry skin.
SENSITIVITY: As skin ages it becomes thinner and more sensitive to irritants. As women enter perimenopause, they may notice that their skin reacts to products which never bothered them in the past—certain cosmetics, soaps, perfumes or laundry detergents suddenly cause rashes.
ROSACEA: According to the National Rosacea Society, rosacea can worsen during menopause. Many women report more flushing episodes and increased numbers of bumps and pimples during these times.
ACNE: During perimenopause, estrogen levels decline but the male hormones (androgens such as testosterone) remain relatively highly. This creates a hormone imbalance which can lead to excess testosterone at the skin receptor, which in turn can cause the skin to produce excess sebum, a common cause of adult acne. Brought on by a reaction to androgens, acne can remain a problem until post menopause when the production of androgens finally falls.
PORES: As our skin loses its elasticity, the pores on our face become bigger.
HYPERPIGMENTATION: Estrogens also moderate melanin production. As menopause begins, melanin synthesis increases due to a lack of estrogen. Any areas of the skin that that have been exposed to UV rays can generate brown age spots, most likely appearing on the face, neck, hands, arms and chest.
SAGGING SKIN: Sagging skin and thin skin are due to the loss of definition/abundance of the underlying collagen and especially the elastin fibers in the dermal layer that provide the recoil properties of youthful skin associated with normal premenstrual estrogen levels.
This just doesn’t relate to the face: lower estrogen levels during perimenopause redistribute fat to the stomach, thighs and buttocks. This leads to a loss of supportive fat below the skin of the face, neck, hands and arms.
Skin Treatments for Perimenopausal Skin
Phytoestrogens are plant-derived estrogens occurring naturally. Seaweed-based ingredients contain phytohormones such as auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, abscissins, hormone precursors chlorophyll, alginate and laminarins.
At the heart of the Repêchage® products is our rich, pure, and exclusive Laminaria Digitata Seaweed Filtrate, derived by a proprietary extraction method that creates a nutrient-rich fluid containing all the phyto-nutrients from seaweed in their most potent form. This is processed into the pure Laminaria Digitata Filtrate. This contains 12 vitamins, 18 amino acids, 42 trace elements and minerals, and phlorotannins—the key elements your skin needs for deep surface hydration and balance.
In addition, this seaweed is a source of many important nutrients, including polyunsaturated fatty acids, enzymes and bioactive peptides. Essential fatty acids help maintain our skin’s barrier, and polysaccharides such as Alginic Acid, help to lock moisture into our skin. Among marine resources, it is also one of the richest sources of natural antioxidants such as phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides, fucosterol and fucoxanthins.
Laminaria digitata seaweed extract contains glutathione (GSH) precursors cysteine, glycine, and glutamic acid, among 15 other amino acids. Glutathione has been shown to be very important in helping prevent hyperpigmentation, helping to prevent melanogenesis, the generation of melanin in skin.
Brown algae generally recognized for ability to accumulate minerals because of their structural and physiological features. Polysaccharides in the cellular wall of brown seaweed enable the accumulation of iodine to more than 30,000 times over its concentration in the surrounding environment. Proteins are macromolecules made up of one or more amino acids, and seaweeds are a good source of amino acid.
Amino acids are one of the important components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) which prevents the water loss in the skin. Seaweeds have amino acids, such as alanine, proline, arginine, serine, histidine, and tyrosine.
The iconic, signature Repêchage Four-Layer Facial® and at home Hydra Blue® Collection for All Skin Types contain the highest level of pure Laminaria Digitata Seaweed Filtrate.
Other Important Natural Ingredients:
Niacinamide/ Vitamin B3
Niacinamide/Vitamin B3 is known to have numerous skin benefits, including helping to improve the overall appearance of skin, improving skin texture, evening the appearance of skin complexion, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots and discoloration, as well as helping to reduce the appearance of pores. Studies have also shown that the appearance of firmness and elasticity is improved.
Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid):
Hyaluronic Acid is natural moisturizing polysaccharide prevalently found in the skin that is known to hold 1000X its weight in water. In the body, Hyaluronic Acid is known to help keep skin moisturized, repair skin tissue, transport nutrients in the blood to skin cells, serve as a cushion to lubricate and protect against damage, and contribute to resilience and suppleness of the skin. As the body ages, Hyaluronic Acid decreases, leading to loss of moisture and elasticity, and contributing to the formation of lines and wrinkles. In skin care, benefits include intense hydration of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles is greatly diminished.
The Repêchage Vita Cura® B3 Lifting Treatment and the at-home Vita Cura® Gold Collection contains high levels of Seaweed extracts as well as two forms of Hyaluronic Acid and other important anti-aging ingredients.
Mastic Oil
Mastic Oil and Water: Known as the “Tears of Chios,” Mastic or Mastiha is a precious, ivory-colored resin with a balsam-like scent derived from the mastic tree known scientifically as Pistacia lentiscus. Although cultivated in other areas, it is the mastic trees in the southern tip of Chios in the Aegean that are most legendary. This ingredient is known to have multiple benefits, shown to help reduce the appearance oil and pore size as well as helping reduce the help reduce dryness, as well as the appearance of fine lines and dark spots.
Mastic Oil and Water can be found in the Repêchage Hydra Dew Pure™ Moisturizing Lift Facial and the at-home Hydra Dew Pure Collection for Dry, Compromised Skin.
Oxidized Glutathione:
A tripeptide composed of glutamic acid, cysteine, and glycine found naturally within the skin that plays an important role in preventing oxidative damage. Glutathione is a key ingredient in the Biolight® Brightening Sheet Mask.
Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract
Red Clover, rich in plant hormones. Independent clinical studies showed that Red Clover Isoflavons have the potential of reducing wrinkles by 37% in density and 20% in depth. This ingredient is used in the Repêchage Vita Cura®5 Phase Firming Facial, and found in the Vita Cura® Renewal Serum and the Vita Cura® Triple Firming Cream.
Bellis Daisy
This breakthrough botanical active ingredient has been shown to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, helping to create a more even-toned appearance to the skin. This is a key ingredient in the Biolight® Brightening Collection and the Biolight® Miracle Facial with Glyco-Sea® Glycolic Peel.
The Importance of Peptides:
Amino Acids are the smallest building blocks of protein and thus life. When several amino acids link they form a peptide. For example, five of them make up a pentapeptide. When many amino acids link together, proteins are formed. Because the choice and sequencing of the amino acids are so varied, so are the resulting proteins. Today the technology of pentapeptides creates the underlying firmness without the irritation of Retinoids.
Messenger Pentapeptides
This breakthrough technology provides us with a biomimetic messenger peptide, patterned on a specific natural collagen fragment show a reduction in the appearance of deep wrinkles. Again pentapeptides have been found to have better results than retinol without the irritation.
Biopeptides
One of the changes occurring in aging skin is the change in elastic properties. This is due to the degradation of the elastin by elastase enzymes. Elastase enzymes catalyze the breakdown of elastin. Biopeptides of the Ulva lactuca seaweed are rich in praline, glycine and lysine.
Palmitoyl – GHK Tripeptide (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide)
The main function of palmitoyl oligopeptide is help skin appear smoother and with diminished appearance of wrinkles.
Peptides are featured in most of the Repêchage professional and retail products, including Biolight®, Vita Cura®, the Triple Peptide Serum and Triple Peptide Mask, and in the Opti-Firm® Eye Contour Treatment and at-home products.
As estheticians, it is important to engage clients with skin care programs that work through-out their life. It is never too late to start an anti-aging program, nor is it too early. Working with your client by educating them on proper ingredients and treatment for the skin at the spa or salon, and recommending proper skin care programs after treatments, such as the Repêchage Starter Collections, can help lessen the effects of menopausal skin concerns, and reduce the appearance of signs of aging.
