Seeing spots? Although the sun isn’t the only cause of dark spots this time of year is a popular time for client’s to come into the spa seeking a solution for their uneven skin tone.
Read below as I answer your top questions relating to dark spots and dull, uneven skin, as well as offer new solutions to help your clients.
1. What is hyperpigmentation and what causes it?
Hyperpigmentation is a common problem which manifests when small areas of the skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin.
It can be caused by a number of factors, including sun damage/UV exposure, specific types of medicine, hormonal changes and post-acne scarring. Hyperpigmentation itself is caused by a hyper-proliferation of melanin in the skin.
Melanin is a substance that gives the skin and hair its natural color. Melanin pigments are formed as part of the process of metabolizing an amino acid called tyrosine. When melanin is formed, the process is called melanogenesis. During this process patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when an excess of melanin, the brown pigment that produces normal skin color, forms deposits in the skin. The process is stimulated by DNA damage to the skin induced by UVB radiation.
2. What is your advice to estheticians treating women of color who are dealing with hyperpigmentation issues?
Those with darker skin have higher amounts of melanin. By contrast, those with less pigment have lighter or fairer skin coloring. However, hyperpigmentation can affect the skin color of people of any race. In fact, melasma from sun exposure (see next question), is most likely to affect people of color.
The most important thing for an esthetician to remember when treating women of color who are dealing with hyperpigmentation issues is to never spot treat a hyperpigmented area. This can cause a halo of lighter skin around the darker spot, which can make the area look worse. Instead, apply a full peel or mask to the entire face.
3. What is melasma and how can it be treated?
Melasma is a common skin problem, especially amongst women, so estheticians will encounter it through the course of their career. Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation believed to be caused when cells in the epidermal layer are stimulated to produce melanin due to sun exposure or changes in hormones brought on by pregnancy or birth control pills. (In fact, melasma is sometimes called “the mask of pregnancy”)
One of the most important recommendations an esthetician can make is to advise clients to consistently wear an SPF 30 full-spectrum sunscreen.
An esthetician can also perform brightening treatments with glycolic peels and recommend at-home products that contain natural ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Oxidized Glutathione, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid (DGA), Kojic Acid and Bellis Daisy to help reduce the appearance of melasma. In severe cases, estheticians can refer clients to a dermatologist or plastic surgeon.
4. What skincare treatments can help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation?
In the past, toxic ingredients such as Hydroquinone and Mercury Chloride have been used to treat clients with hyperpigmentation. Today, we have ingredients derived from nature that can help to lessen the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Offering an advanced professional facial treatment that utilizes the latest in brightening science and innovative marine bio-technology, such as the Repêchage Biolight® Miracle Facial with Biolight® Glyco-Sea™ Glycolic Peel, can be used to help address hyperpigmentation, including conditions such as melasma, and uneven skin tone.
Estheticians can also offer express treatments alone or as add-ons to help brighten the skin’s appearance, such as the Repêchage Biolight® Luminex Mask, a glycolic peel in a clay mask form. This express hybrid peel treatment is a soufflé crème mask containing Glycolic Acid (AHA), Fruit Acid, Kaolin Clay and other botanicals to help reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone, deep cleanse, gently exfoliate, and reduce excess oils, while also moisturizing the skin with Laminaria Digitata seaweed extract.
The new Repêchage Biolight® Express Brightening Facial can also help to brighten skin’s appearance, and be used in conjunction with Repêchage Biolight® Luminex Mask and the Repêchage Biolight® Miracle Facial with Biolight® Glyco-Sea™ Glycolic Peel.
5. What at-home products can help treat uneven skin tone?
Clients should always be advised that to home care is essential to continue the benefits of their professional brightening treatments.
A brightening skincare regimen that utilizes natural ingredients like Alpha Arbutin, Oxidized Glutathione, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid (DGA), Bellis Daisy, Kojic Acid, Glabridin, and Pelvetia Canaliculata Seaweed, found in the Repêchage Biolight® Collection, can help reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone.
Have more questions about hyperpigmentation? Comment your questions below!
