Summer is officially over and we know what this means for estheticians – many clients have sun damaged skin, particularly skin with signs of hyperpigmentation.
As an esthetician, it is important for you to understand how hyperpigmentation occurs, the best skin brightening ingredients, and what skin care services are available to your clients to help minimize the appearance of sun damage.
What is Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is a common problem which manifests when small areas of the skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin.
Hyperpigmentation occurs from a hyper-proliferation of melanin in the skin. Melanin is a substance that gives the skin and hair its natural color. Melanin pigments are formed as part of the process of metabolizing an amino acid called tyrosine. When melanin is formed, the process is called melanogenesis. During this process patches of skin become darker in color than the normal surrounding skin. This darkening occurs when an excess of melanin form deposits in the skin.
What Causes Hyperpigmentation?
A number of factors can contribute to hyperpigmentation, including sun damage, specific types of medicine, hormonal changes, post acne scarring and smoking.
Sun or age spots, caused by UV light, are probably the most common form of hyperpigmentation, which is why you see an increase of clients with concerns about skin brightening treatments after the summer and in the fall months.
It is important to know there are other prevalent forms such as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma.
Melasma is common skin problem, especially amongst women, a form of hyperpigmentation believed to be caused when cells in the epidermal layer are stimulated to produce melanin due to sun exposure or changes in hormones brought on by pregnancy or birth control pills. In fact, melasma is sometimes called “the mask of pregnancy.”
Whereas melasma is a result of hormonal triggers, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a condition in which an injury or inflammation to the skin causes increased pigment production.
Safe Skin Brightening Ingredients
In the past, ingredients such as Hydroquinone and Mercury Chloride have been used to treat melanogensis. These ingredients however, have been linked to a variety of health issues even when used in small percentages.
Today, we have natural brightening ingredients that can help to lessen the appearance of hyperpigmentation from the sun, acne scars, hormonal changes, and certain prescription medication without taking the risk of causing your client future health complications.
Below is a list of natural, safe, and effective ingredients that can help reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone:
- Alpha Arbutin
- Oxidized Glutathione
- Diglucosyl Gallic Acid (DGA)
- Bellis Daisy
- Kojic Acid
- Gotu Kola
- Licorice Root extract
- Glabridin
- Willow Bark extract
- Pelvetia Canaliculata Seaweed
Professional Skin Brightening Facial:
To help lessen the appearance of uneven tones, dark spots and hyper-pigmentation perform the Repêchage Biolight® Miracle Facial monthly or as needed. The Repêchage Biolight® Miracle Facial kit contains everything you need in convenient and sanitary unidose applications for maximum effectiveness.
Preparation:
- Secure clients hair with a hair band.
- Disinfect hands using the enclosed Clean Hands Anti-Microbial Hand Wipes.
- If appropriate, remove eye make-up by saturating cotton with gentle Repêchage Opti-Cleanse cleanser. Have client close their eyes and using downward strokes, remove eye make-up. Rinse the eye area well with water and cotton.
Directions:
- Cleanse skin using a Biolight® Brightening Cleanser, comprised of seaweed, willow bark, gotu kola and licorice extracts. Using circular motions, gently remove with cotton saturated in lukewarm water. Repeat rinsing to thoroughly remove any residue. Pat skin dry with tissue.
- Protect eyelids by placing Repêchage® Eye Rescue Pads eye over the eyes, and apply Biolight® Glyco-Sea® Glycolic Peel, a 35% glycolic peel. Pour into a small glass bowl and utilize the enclosed facial brush to distribute product to face and neck area. Leave this peel on for 5 – 7 minutes. A slight stinging may occur. This is normal, and will subside. You may use a fan to cool down the skin. Remove thoroughly with cool wet cotton. Spray entire face with the Biolight® Brightening Toner to refresh and refine the skin. Note: The Glyco-Sea™ Glycolic Peel is available as an individual treatment.
- Apply Biolight® Brightening Skin Serum, a serum that contains seaweed extract, hexapeptide-2 and watermelon extracts, to the face and neck and administer a soothing facial massage. Massage should last for 3 – 5 minutes or until fully absorbed into skin.
- Apply Biolight® Brightening Massage Cream, that includes Laminaria digitata extract, willow bark, gotu kola and licorice extracts to help skin appear brighter and more luminous. This massage should be ten to fifteen minutes in length, incorporating effleurage, tapotement and shiatsu pressure point movements.
- Apply a cooling mask with Ulva lactuca seaweed. It’s best to mix ingredients into an alginate base to create a soft, peel-off mask. Mix contents of the Biolight® Brightening Mask Formula A and Biolight® Brightening Gel Active B into a rubber mixing bowl and mix together with the enclosed spatula until a smooth paste is formed. Apply evenly to the face and neck. Let client rest for 10 – 15 minutes. This is a perfect time to administer a hand massage using Repêchage® Sea Spa Hand Cream.
- Remove mask by gently lifting it from the neck and folding it over. Remove any residue with cotton saturated in warm water.
- Spray Biolight® Brightening Toner evenly over the face and neck area and pat dry using a clean tissue.
- After the facial, it is important that you apply a full spectrum protection cream thoroughly to the skin. Chemical peels make skin more susceptible to sun damage, and more reactive.
Recommended Home Care:
Be sure to recommend at-home care products that will continue to improve the appearance of the skin and help hide the appearance of sun damage:
- Biolight® Brightening Cleanser
- Biolight® Brightening Toner
- Biolight® Brightening Skin Correct Serum
- Biolight® Brightening Overnight Cream
- Biolight® Brightening Daytime Protection Cream
- Biolight® Brightening Miracle Mask
- Biolight® Brightening Sheet Mask
- Biolight® Frost Bright Eye Contour Gel
Advise your clients to always use an SPF, and remind them that it needs to be reapplied throughout the day.
Contraindications:
Although the Repêchage® Biolight® Glyco-Sea Glycolic Peel has been developed to be one of the safest and most gentle Glycolic peels available, there are contraindications to glycolic acid use in general that must be considered. If your client has any of the following, please refrain from administering the peel:
- Pregnancy or breast feeding*
- Rosacea*
- Allergy to salicylic acid or aspirin*
- Excessive open lesions
- Thin, highly sensitive skin*
- Taking Accutane (must discontinue using for 6 months or with Dr. approval)
- Herpes Simplex (HV1) in active stage
- Atopic dermatitis
- Chronic urticaria (hives)
- Somatic diseases in an acute stage including SARS
- Recently had depilatory waxing or laser hair removal
Express Brightening Facials
Estheticians can also offer express brightening treatments alone or as add-ons to other facial services to help brighten the skin’s appearance.
The Repêchage Biolight® Luminex Mask, is glycolic peel in a clay mask form. This express hybrid peel is a soufflé crème mask containing Glycolic Acid (AHA), Fruit Acid, Kaolin Clay and other ingredients to help brighten skin’s appearance, deep cleanse, gently exfoliate, and reduce excess oils, while also moisturizing the skin with Laminaria Digitata seaweed extract.
The new Repêchage Biolight® Express Brightening Facial can also help to brighten skin’s appearance. This express, 30 minute treatment combines the latest in sheet mask biotechnology, using ingredients such as Arbutin, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, and Oxidized Glutathione combined with our exclusive Repêchage® seaweed extracts.
This brightening facial will help sallow, dull skin with accumulated dead skin cells look rejuvenated, glowing and restored while helping to control the appearance of uneven tone. It can be used in conjunction with Repêchage Biolight® Luminex Mask and the Repêchage Biolight® Miracle Facial with Biolight® Glyco-Sea™ Glycolic Peel.
*This blog is for informational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice, treatment or diagnosis. The Repêchage Biolight® Miracle Facial, Biolight® Luminex Mask and Biolight® Express Brightening Facial are not intended to treat, diagnose, cure or prevent any disease. Always seek the advice of your doctor or health provider with any questions or concerns you may have about a medical condition.
