Extraction Techniques all Estheticians Must Know

Performing extractions properly is one of the most important skills we can have as an esthetician.

This month I want to share extraction tips that all estheticians should be following. These tips make the extraction process easier for professionals and leave clients fully satisfied with their facial results.

Know the proper tools and techniques for comedone extractions and milia removal.

How to perform comedone extractions

Method 1: Extractions with fingertips

One way to perform extractions is using your fingertips. For this technique, you must have short nails.

1. Wearing vinyl gloves, wrap your index fingers with cotton that’s been applied with astringent.
2. Use the sides of the fingertips to exert firm pressure of the skin surrounding the comedone and lift the blackhead gently. (Remember not to use your nails for pressure this will dig the impaction deeper into the skin.)
3. If it doesn’t remove immediately, with slight pressure from side to side, use alternating angles to gently lift the comedone.

Method 2: Extractions with sterile cotton swabs

Another gentle and effective way to remove a comedone is with sterile cotton swabs.

1. Hold the swabs with your index finger and thumb and gently press down on both sides of the comedone. Do not apply too much pressure as it could bruise the skin.
2. If the contents do not expel right away, move the swabs gently from side to side and then it will lift up. If this does not work, leave it for the next treatment and move to another area. (Remember the comedones did not occur in one day and many times it will take more than one treatment to clear them all up.)

How to perform milia extractions

Milia can only be removed with the use of a lancet. (*Check with local state board if the use of lancets is permissible)

1. Hold the lancet parallel to the skin and gently pierce the skin in a horizontal motion at the follicle opening. (Remember if you prick the skin with the lancet in a downward motion you could scar the skin.)
2. After piercing the skin horizontally wrap the index fingers with cotton or sterile cotton swabs (as explained above), moving your fingers or the cotton swabs gently pressing down on both sides of the milia.

A good way to practice extractions using a lancet is to blow up a balloon and pierce it gently. If the balloon pops you are using too much pressure. Practice until you do not pop the balloon, then you will be ready to work with a lancet. After using the lancet, it must be disposed of in a sharp box. DO NOT REUSE LANCETS!

Use desincrustation to make the extraction process easier.

Desincrustation is the process of softening the keratinaceous horny plug. It allows extractions to proceed easily with minimal trauma to the surrounding tissue.

Galvanic machine may be used to perform desincrustation. Estheticians can use a gentle desincrustation mask to help soften blackheads and make the extraction process easier.

Use lancets to remove comedones, milia, papules and pustules.*

Estheticians can remove comedones (closed and open), milia, papules and pustules, with the use of lancets. (*Check with local state board if the use of lancets is permissible)

Do not extract the skin for too long.

The extraction process should not take more than 10-15 minutes. Again, your clients did not get problem skin overnight and you cannot get rid of it in one session.

After extractions, treat the skin with an astringent and a mask.

Using an astringent and mask is critical, as both can help prevent any secondary infections. A second soothing calamine mask is also recommended, as it is effective in removing any redness that may be left over from the extractions.

Do not treat cysts and nodules.

Cysts and nodules must be treated by dermatologists. As an esthetician you can still administer deep pore cleansing facials, but clients with cystic acne must be referred to a dermatologist.

Always educate your client.

Many times clients fear the extraction process, thinking they breakout more or scarring will occur. Remind your client that both are preventable with good sanitation and sterilized equipment.

And of course educate your client on proper maintenance and home care. This includes regular in-salon treatments, and following a home care specifically designed for them. Most importantly, remind them not to pick and squeeze as it can spread bacteria and cause more inflammation and even scarring!

Have more extraction techniques? Share them with me in the comments below!